Editor’s note

I am interested in this diary because - eventually - the author spends time in Rome and Pompeii. I am also interested to see what her impression is of the Nile, its antiquities and its people. From a methodological point of view, I am also transcribing this diary to learn how to use Transcribus, an environment that uses machine learning to -eventually- learn how to OCR the handwriting. Some of its (Transkribus’) features include automatic line detection, which is great for moving through the transcription methodically. Transkribus will also export the transcription as TEI, or as text embedded in the pdf, or as a Word doc. It doesn’t do markdown. It also doesn’t seem to export a space at the end of a line of text, and so you get words mushed where there should be line breaks. Finally, I was also interested in pushing this through ‘Ed’, but I kept getting weird kramdown errors and I figured, bah, just put it in my notebook. As always, is enabled to allow me to mark up and link outwards to other kinds of information. Yes, I could do that in the text too, but I like the Hypothesis api.

August 1874

Aug. 22 - 1874. Left New York in Cunard steamer Algeria David, George, Bruce, D. W. Bishop and Ella Barrett with Augusta (the laundress) to see us off - a rainy day. D. W. Bishop introduced us toMr. Brown of Yorkshire, and to Mr. Smith, a Presb. clergyman of Lenox whowith his family was going to his native Scotland. Capt. read serviceon Sunday morning - in afternoon dead body of whale white, andshiny quite near us upon the water and hundreds of little birds uponit. The first half of voyage had smooth sea, mild temperature,and head winds. Saw a number of vessels. The second sundaymorning found the sea running high (it had been quite roughfor a couple of days) suddenly a great wave rose ten feetabove the deck and came down upon it knocking downevery one before it, C. among the number and came downthe gangway and into all the deck staterooms to the depthof five or six inches, setting all moveable things, trunks, etcafloat. I sat up on my couch and held on to my trunk and to C’schair that they might not go out and obstruct the passage ways.This was shortly before 10. A.M. After a time C. waded downto me with her shoes in her hand to report herself all soundbut drenched. Lunch was served at noon, and soon afterthe stewards had succeed in getting the water out of the room sufficiently for C. to change her dress and for us tolook into my trunk. Everything below the trays had to bewrung out and hung up! On Sunday night a woman in the steerage died of heart defects. The wave was not the causethey were not at all wet there. The following night she wasburied at sea, the Capt. and Dr. being present. Tuesday at 2 P.M. landed passengers at Queenstown, having goneup into the harbor farther than I had ever been before.

September 1874

Sept 2 - Wednesay at 8 A.M. stopped at the bar of the Merseyfor four hours for the tide. Finally stopped about 2 P.Mcustoms house officers and mr. Sherlock came on board.We were at the Adelphi where Mr. Sherlock had engagedrooms for us at 3 1/2 P.M. Among our passengers we hadbecome more particularly acquainted with there with us atthe Captain’s talbe Mrs. Larisson and daughter of Baltimore and her niece Miss Patterson, (great nice of Mr Mrs Bonapart)Mr. Yarnall of Philadelphia, going out to meet his wife and children in England - Mr. Jaqueneot a silk merchant 25 years old, native of Genoa, but living 6 years or morein Japan full of life and lafter - a Scotch lawyer opposite -Mr. Middleton, half Italian, half English, a most refined and cultivated young gentleman. He was baptized by PopeGregory 16, has an uncle a cardinal, and a great grand father’s headwas hung under London Bridge for being a Jacobite. Therewas also a Mr. and Mrs. Macklin, a most devoted couple who had a room opposite ours. After dinner walked to Brown’s Librarybut had not long to remain, the Egyptian collection lookedinteresting. Stepped into the great Northern Hotel - bough thei…critable piece of camphor. I did not have any letters towrite as I had written to all the family from Queenstown.

Sept. 3 Thursday. Had been most comfortable at the Adelphi.Left room after 9 a.m. in the London and North Western. The countrylooked brown and autumnal. At E. Sq. Station saw six cor….s chained together Reached Euston Sq. station 2.30 P.M.Are at Bracon’s Hoetel, 21 Dover st. Piccadilly. A rainy afternoonvery tired, did not go out.

Sept. 4 Friday. A rainy day went about noon to theKensington Museum. Met directly Miss Carter of Ireland,one of our fellow passengers who showed us the drawings ofthe students, one of her own among them very prettilycoloured, a fruit piece. A course of frut is gone through beforethey are allowed to go to the human figure. Took our lunch in the grill room. The wall in …. representing the month and seasons, stained glass window of Fox and Grafer. At oneend is a great range with a very large gridiron, and the steakor chop the only things furnished there are cooked before youreyes and serve quite hot and nice. Opening out of this is theDining room where cut from the joint etc are served. We went through the picture gallery, Resa…. galleries, and the Loancoolection which is very beautiful particularly in enamels.

Sept. 5 Saturday. Walked over to Regents Quadrant, and downRegent at 20 Carleton Terrace. C. spoke to one of the men whohave fruit stalls behind the terrace at the end of St James Park - hisgreat grand father had had the stall originally. He had a cowthere too so as to sell fresh milk. Bought guide books for Egyptat Stanfords and …. map of London at Smiths. Lunched atCharing Cross Station, noisy and confused. Strolled to the VictoriaEmbankment and sat down in garden by Charing Cross Bridge. Herestill stands the old water gate of York House. Visited NationalGallery - notice the Turners, and took cab home. Found ourtrunks by the goods train had arrived.

Sept. 6. Sunday All Saints Margaret st. reachedthere late, a fi… seat, ch.. absent on holliday - wretched sermon. Church beautiful. A cold rainy day, did not go out again.

Sept. 7 - Monday - Next to St Pauls - entered by door at endwhich is much more impressive than side entrace. A chapel on theleft hand is filled up much in Roman Catholic style. Thework of decorating dome etc progresses very slowly. Brassmural tablets have been erected to the memory of the officers andmen who perished by the capsizing of the Captain off CapeFinisterre in 1870. The tonnage or construction of the vessel had beenchanged while building and the Captian had not be modified. This isperperly set forth in the memorial. Took lunch and spent the restof the day in Bethnell Green Museum and wonderfully beautifulcollection of pictures etc. On leaving I went a little way into VictoriaPark - returning xxxxx Lunatic Asylum, Holborn Valley Viaduct, NewMetropolitan Market with its handsome iron gates and street runningunder it. Somewhere a house with slab inserted to show that Drydenlived there.

Sept. 8 - Tuesday. Went to Dr. Reynolds - every thing very tastefuldrawings, fern cakes, Scotch grey xxxxx. He had nothing different tosay except to approve of our sojurn in Egypt. Mrs. O’Sullivanand Mrs. Landen out of town, left cards. Went to the Grill roomfor lunch, went into the International Gallery - pictures modern and quite interesting - the garden fine - heard organ in AlbertHall and crossed Hyde Park to see Albert memorial veryfine and grand. In the evening had a very pleasant visitfrom Mr. Middleton who brought a beautiful collection ofgold coins to show us. He took C’s watch to be repaired.

Sept 9 - Wednesday. Went out a pouring rain and boughtsome fruit for lunch. Mr. M. came for lunch at 12.30 and then wewent out in brougham to Westminster Abbey. He got the key,of some places there not generally shown to the public. Wewent up a narrow winding room stone stairs behindthe chapel of Edward the Confessor into an upper roomwhere prayers were said for the soul of Henry 5th hishelmet, shiled, and saddle of the armour that her wore atAgincourt were on a beam above, they probablywould not bear handling. He showed us someother places of this sort used for praying for somedeparted one in particular. He opened another littledoor a wooden stairs to the same sort of little roomwhere were effigies of distinguished persons dressed in the clothes they had worn in life- these very effigieswere carried in the funeral procession. There were Charles 2nd in beautiful lace and velvet, Queen Elizabeth frightfully ugly,Lord Nelson. The Duke of Buckingham (George Villiers) wasrepresented as lying dead, all the others as standing and alive. Agreat quantity of mock jewelry decorated them all, but they wore their own clothes and superb real lace. In a closet were the mannikinswith out any faces or dresses. Saw the wooden box containing thebones of Major Andre. In a side chapel on one side is a recent bustof the late F. D. Maurice where it seems strangely out of place. Noticedthe very beautiful iron work enclosing the tombe of Henry 7. Went intohist beautiful chapel, superb roof, banners of the knights of the order ofthe Bath, no banners are added but a new brass plate is put infor each new knight. No one is allowed to go upon the roofthe ceiling is considered so insecure. We went into theChapter House a very beautiful octagonal room with largelofty windows a high roo with one beatuiful marble columb in the centre - the original fine tile floor. Theyhave it practically covered with matting to preserve it. In thechapel of Ed. the Confessor near the entrance Mr. M. drew a boltin the floor and showed us a bit about 10 in by 5 of the original mosaicpavement. In the cloisters some composition has been putover the roof and carvings to preserve them as they were allcrumbling away. He pointed out some of the new purchased at the National Gallery - fine old pictures and wonderful prices.One by is so much retouched that they talk of having it cleaned to come down to the original He broughtus a guide book to London a hundred years ago to look at.Among the coins he brought was one of silver of Queen Elizabethmade so old and ugly that she ordered them all destoryed, abouta third of this has been cut off, but the head it left entire. Thisis the only one know to exist. The British Museum offered him [pounds] 60 for it which he declined but has left it to the Museum in his will. After he left us I bought this book etc. Miss Carymade us a very agreeable visit in the evening. She toldus that it has been quite the fashion this summer to makeexcursions in the environs in certain six horse coaches, whichare often driven by the owners, gentlemen, sometimes peersof the realm. They start from the White Horse cellars also by

Sept. 10 - Thursday. To Northumberland House,Trafalgar Square which is entirely dismantled, every thingmoveable gone even to the mantels and the timbers, stone, doorwindows stair cases etc are being sold at auction. TheBallroom and Pompeian room must have been superb.The kitchen, offices, pantries, and the arrangements for the servants are on a very extensive scale. The building is palatial, and when the garden ran down to the Thames itmust have been superb. Drove to the Victoria Station, luncheon,and went by train 1/2 hr to Dulwich, where a ten minutes walkbrought us to the gallery - free - the Murillo’s and Cuyp’s areparticularly fine. The Murillo’s Madonna of the Rosary is here,his Flower Girl and Peasant Boys. Rembrandt’s Little ServingMaid looking out of a window is very attractive. Other finepcitures by other artists. Had to wait a while for the train.Sydenham is but a very little farther.

Sept. 11 - Friday. Mr. M. lunched with us again. We wentin the brougham to the Foreign Office, a superbe new building - built around four side of a large quadrangle, on this interiorcourt statues and bust ornament the walls of the building. Thestaircase is magnificent entirely of mrables of the countrywhe wh of the balustrade is of dove colored marble perhaps 10 inwide, side walls painted on the plaster in excellent lathcoloring fine. The room for the reception of ambassadors iselegant, but they have retained the old fireplace which istoo insignificant for this fine room. The dining roomadjoining is spacious and elegant here they have retained the old mahogany furniture which is not much xxxx. Passedinto the India Office which was built before this and is notnearly so fine. Saw some carved slabs from India undera glass roof. At the British Museum saw some of thecoins and intaglios some of the latter very fine and costly. Inthe same room is the Etruscan jewelry bought fromCastellani for which together with the bronzes the Museumgave [pounds]20 000. Among these bronzes is a life size headof Minirva very beautiful, the back of the head filled inwith wood- a little figure about 8 in. high which haddiamond eyes - could not get near this as the room wasbeing cleaned. mr. M. by some magic took us intothe room where are the manuscripts and wrote an order fortwo which were brought, also a sack to put them onthey had belonged to the Dukes of Norfolk and were bequeathedby one of them to the Museum the first was of the 13th centurythe last a volume of a Bible was of the 14th, very finelyexecuted, a miniature of about 3 1/2 in by 4 1/2 on almostevery leaf the back rounds of these were of a very richdiaper patterns often showing the Dukes arms as ifwas painted for Lxxx of course they were on vellum. There can be very few manuscripts as fine as this. For oneof the cases outside is a part of the Magna Charta, which someone rescued from a sailor just as he was going to cut it intopatterns. Next into the reading room an immense circularroom lighted from the top with every convenience- books ofreference line the walls all around - the real library isshut off in numerous small room and every quarter hour atruck of books is wheeled in that has been ordered the previousquarter. Mr. M. told us that the sale of the NorthumberlandHouse brought only [pounds] 5000, the government gave [pounds] 100,000 for thehouse and I think [pounds] 156,000 more for the grounds. The Governmentcompelled the Duke to sell it as it is planned to run a finestreet through there. After parting with Mr. M. we went to theDeré gallery where we found Mr. and Mrs. Pjee Ronalds en routefor home; but as Mr. R is not well at present it is probable thatthey will remain this side. They told us of the death of Mr. Ad. Thomas.Passed the evening very agreeably in the Cary’s parlor, MrsLeRoy was there.

Sept. 12 - Saturday. Called at St. George’s Albemarle st. to seeif Mrs. L. Spencer might be there - walked up New Bond st. stoppedinto Phillip’s China shop. For Solon’s cameo’s about 10 in by 5 in he asked from to 35 figureines. There is only one of eachsubject no duplicates of his work and he is employed by N….In this respect his work is like pictures. A tea set bought by a N. S. lady was 55 guineas - it consists of 18 cups and saucer 2 cakeplates and a slp bowl. Tiffany has some single cups of it jolanderpattern rich brown and gold grass and birds on white ground linedwith pink. The Artistic Grey stone ware is made in Londonand called Doulton Pottery. Looked for books about Egypt.Went to our bankers and to enquire for Alston, then to theBethnall Green Museum, looked principally at the FrenchSchool of paintings which is very fine rich in Meissoniers,Vernels, Decamps, Greuze etc. Some very few Raynolds,and Lawrence’s. Dined at the Criterion - a very fine buildingelegant staircase - tiles on each side with fine effect.Had walked through the Metropolitan meat market.

Sept 13 Sunday - Went to St Andrews, nells St. ritualistic - choir away, service not very satisfactory, sermon poor.Corssed over to All Saints where we saw the end of the Communnion service. The Officiating Priests were dressed in a sortof pale brown robes trimmed with red. He who carried thechalice seemed to wave it in the form of a cross before presenting it to each person - when we first entered we saw afew men go to the altar and when they had commensied file off ontheir side, when they had finished a few more women ear - thecheri was fine - the service seemed impressive. The church verytasteful and rich in its decorations, beautiful marbles, some tileand bricks of various colrs are introduced with good effect. Therestaurants being closed wwe lunched at home and walkedto Westminster Abbey and though we arrived there 15 minutesbefore the hour specified every seat where one could hope to hearwith comfort was filled. Made several ineffectual attempts andlooked around during most of the service - stood and heard a fewwords towards the end of the sermon. Saw Mr. Lewis Rutherford there.After walking around the equestrian statue of Richard Couer de Liontook a hanson and drove through Pimlico, through Victoria street and other streets of new andcomfortable houses, belonging very largely to the Marquis of Westministerthere over the scarcely finished Chelsea suspension bridge (had topayd 2d. toll each way) to Battersea Park - a park for the people andthey seemed to be enjoying it this fine afternoon. Some finetrees, and flower beds stiffly laid out; but tended with care and verypretty and tasteful altogeether very attractive, two or three houses of refreshment. Returningcame through Chelsea street where are Bassicks which must be a fifth of a mile in length and some way up through Strand st toPiccadilly. From Battersea Park had noticed the Hospital, and a Cedar of Lebanon which Murray says is in Physic Gardens there.

Sept. 14 - Monday. Again to Westminster Abbey where wepoke about for a long time looking more particularly at theinteresting things that Mr. M. had shown us, at the Champslevé enamel which were were not accquainted with before.The Chapter House is very interesting. Near the entranceis the wooden door leading to where the Pyx was keptSome one who had tried to rob it was flayed and his skinnailed upon the door. Mr. M. remembered seeing somebit of it there, and put his hand over the top said he couldfeel some of it still. Lunched at the Criterion and came home.C. Went to bed with a headache. In the evening Mrs.L. Spencer and Charlie called also Mr. M., he broughtC’s watch and some photographs for us to look at.

Sept 15 - Tuesday - Commenced our preparations forleaving by buying a number of Murray’s Guides etc.At Goodis 19 South Audley st saw fine plates for Duke ofEdinburg 15 Guineas each, some things were cheaper thanat Kensington Museums. The display was very beautiful. Lunch in South Kensington Museum. Noticed the ornamentsof pure gold brought from Ashantee, also slate swords etc etc. Noticedenamels which can be well studied here, think our little box”Tho absent not forgot” is Battersea Enamel - saw more champlieeenamel near by were the cloisonné a Limoges enamels. Upstairs in the jewel case is an enormous pearl 2 inches ormore long and about 1 in thick it is shaded, there are manyother interesting stones. Noticed the Henri II vase calledinlaid earthenware - very much valued. Found a courier waiting to see us when we returned. He spokeall languages, and had been every where, and all this for [pounds] 15 a month.

Sept. 16 - Wednesday - Walked around Berkeley Sq., where isGunter’s Fashionalbe place for rich and in afternoons during the seasonscarriages may be seen in front of this shop with ladies insideenjoying the ices. Earl of Haddinton and some others live here,houses quite plain, but of extra width. Left my water in M….st., and strolled around Grosvenor Sq. where the houses are very muchfiner - that of the Earl of Crawford and Balcarres especially fine - theseof the Earl of Percy and of the Earl of Shaftesbury are quite out ofrepair, Bought some drugs etc, and went to the British MuseumLooked amost opposite in a side st. Looked principally at the wonders of Greek art, also at some of the stones from Assyria andEgypt. Looked for some of the couriers.

Sept. 17 Thursday. Went out late and shopped - more books forEgypt. Magnesium tirches and a colored spectacles also for Egypt boughtoff a jew - Solomon 22 Red Lion Square. He manufacturers thelamps for burning the magneisum wire. We were sent here byJohnstong and Mathewys? T.S. Halton Garden who seemed to belarge manufactures of the magnesium wire ribbon, powers etcand called them selves assayers - a husky pieace the ribbon about1/10 in wide was 12/ an ounce and made a coil about 3 1/2 in. diameter.All the lamps except the smallest size burn two ribbons at onceand all have clock work for playing it out, a vary in price from50/ to [pounds] 6.10. Red Lion Sq. is cheapest and best plan. Pilliough andBaccarat are both in Halton Garden.

Sept. 18 - Friday - Did not go out until nearly two.Bought still another guide Book. Went into the roomsof the Arundel Society 24 Old Bond st. framed on the wallswere many of their beautiful chromos from the works of Rafaelle, Fra Bartholomeo, Ghilaundajo etc. saw photo graphs from the original fresco or oil paintings of theold masters as the cale might. Their work is truly artisitic.

Sept. 19 Saturday Packed a trunk to go to Paris by Petit VitesseAgain did not go out unitl about 2 P.M. bought an albumwent into Soho Bazaar, which seemed to be a collection of small shops forselling often useless artists. They finished paering our street today.It seems to have been macadmised - they dug up the old stones andperhaps added some new, scattered fresh earth and watered it and rolledit down by means of a steam engine with the tires of each of the twowheeles about a foot wide and behind a roller of about thrice the widthwhich would have just fitted xxxx them. The job is not very good.

Sept. 20 - Sunday. Went for 10 a.m. service to Westminister Abbey.Canon Kingsley did not preach after; but read the commandmentand gospel very badly. The congregation did not assemble until nearthe hour. Drove to see the church of st. Clement’s xxxx, where Dr.Johnson worshipped for 20 years in a pew in the gallery upon the right in enteringthe church by the second column from the back. The congregation wereall singing when we looked in. Looked in St-Mary-le-Strand churchit is handsome inside- has been modernized - is of a general greenish tintappeared to be xxx xxx Stepped into the quadrangle of SomersetHouse - an imposing building two very deep basements below thelevel of the ground. Lunched in the city - Temple bar still standsalthough all shored up. Drove around the Bank - the new general P.O. is close by and looked handsome, passed around the MansionHouse, Exchange, Monument, Guild Hall etc. Our driver showedus Bennetts new clock, with bells and great figures which are inmotion when it strikes. Attended servie in St. Pauls, CanonLightfoot, if it were he, gave a fairly good sermon; but mannernot very goo. A large choir of men and boys (good; but wouldprobably have been better at the jesuit church and nearly as intelli-gable. Afterwards drove to Regents Park on the East sidesome beautiful residences along there. The colosseum there is to come down.

Sept. 21 - Monday. Packed trunks and went in cab to change onepair of colored glasses which had been given to us a wrong xxx butit being the day of atonement Solomon’s place was closed andwas taken to one of his wokers who elonged it but the wholeaffair cost twice as much as a new pair would have done.At charing cross Station our luggage weighed heavy, couldnot allow us on both parcels - paid in full on that to BoulogneThe train passage through quite a pretty country to Folkstone.(via Tunbridge) Had left London at 1.25 - left Folkstone xxxxdiaxxx on arrival of train 3.50 and reached Boulogne about 5. P.M. therehaving been considerable wind and some sprinkling of rain many were sea-sick. I did not disgrace myself. There were four or five French fishermenand a little boy on board who has been run down at sea in their boat.He excited a good deal of sympathy particularly one man who was injured -the father of the boy. It was curious to see the women hauling the trunks -they looked old; but were very brisk. In short dark woollen dresses withwet worsted stockings and wooden shoes, carefully flushed white caps and long mas-sive looking gold earings. She looked very clean, and quite happy. We were sometime detained at the Douane. After dinner wlked a few steps eachway in the street, and saw “la retraite”, that is the guarde Eugenie who areabout returning to their home after a short visit in Boulogne. There wereilluminated church lanterns carried in the procession and from variouswindows brilliant colored lights were displayed for a few moments as they passed.

Sept. 22. Tuesday. Looked out of the Dining room window on thestatue of Jenner (the discoverer of vaccination) and on the busy throngof women principally. Drove about for an hour up to the old town which is still surrounded by a high wall, enteredunder of its old gateways. The belfrey of the Palais de justicedates back to the 13th century and is quite grass grown. The cathedral isquite a fine building - has a tall dome - the paintings xxx aremostly black and white. Went through the part of the town where thefishermen live. Their nets are hung on short poles out of the upper windows. In the street the women and children were busy mendingand making them. Went into the fish market - all women there.many curious and bright colored fish for sale. After lunch walkedacross the bridge to the station. 1.30 P.Pm. Luggage weighed again and some allowancegiven us to Paris - had to go a long way down the station to the cars.Came on in the Dames Seules, superb sunset, detention again forthe custom house. Reached Paris about 6 P.M. did not get to theWestminster until about 7.

Sept. 23d. Wednesday. A rainy day. went out a while tosee if we could do better about rooms; but saw nothing readyso nice, had lunch in the coffee room and went to the customshouse for our trunks which had been registered through. Lookedinto our turnks and made an appointment at Norths.

Sept. 24 - Thursday - Went to Drexel, Haejet and Co for money andletters and to some shops - lunched at Guerres- went to North’s butwill have to go again tomorrow, met Miss Bennett there, and MrsDaly at Bon Marché - had met Mrs. Robbins in the morning,drove around the Tuilleries and Louvre - the Tuilleries are …lydestoryed especially that part towards the rue Rivoli. The cronersof rue Castiglione where the ministre of Finance was is fenced in asif they were about to rebuild it. The column Vendome is half up?

Sept. 25 - Friday - Given up to vanity. Hair dressed etc… made appointment for tomorrow. Enjoyed … dresses of northcollars for self at Wagen’s and elsewhere. met Mrs. Robbins, Mrs. J.S. Morgan,and Mrs. Lamdon.

Sept. 26 - Saturday. Engaged Mr M. W’s bonnets of Virot Attendedto more of the commisions and bought two of Marielles books for Egypt anda diner dress. Saw a large book of Mariettei on Denderah, verycareful drawings of heiroglphyicks etc.

Sept 27 - Sunday - visited church, …. a conglomerationof Pres. and Epis., a short turn in the Bois. Called on Mrs. L. Spencer.Afternoon Episcopal Church, rue de Bayard, heard mrs. Morgan. TheChamps Elysee crowded with people sitting in Warm weather.

Sept. 28 - Monday - Went to conseil office and to see Dr. Laerille alsoto the Beaux Arts where we saw the painting by M. Baudey for theinterior of the new Opera House. They show a great deal of boldness.He is about thirty two - had the Prix de Rome. Our trunk camebyt Petite Vitesse, had apparently been examined at the custom House.In the evening Heloise now Mme Robin, a former cousins maid called.

Sept. 29 - Tuesday - Were engaged at home until afternoon whenwe made a number of visits; but only saw Mrs. Tucker where wemade a short visit other guests coming.

Sept. 30 - Wednesday - More or less rain all day - … -looked at Milliners for a travelling hat; but think the commonmilliners just as poor in proportion as Virot. Wrote to Mrs. Carpenter

October 1874

Oct. 1 - Thursday - The usual unsatisfactory Paris day.Pleasant letters from home and from Alston.

Oct. 2 - Friday - I read letter from Mrs. Shenck the artistputting himself at our service some day. C. had letter from theContesse de Chaponay asking her to visit her at her chateau Badonnear Nantes. C. answered her and did not go out untillate. I wound up several commissions and visited Mrs. Robbinsin the morning. A very rainy afternoon.

Oct. 3 - Saturday - Did not do much. Talked with a ….maid. Heard from Mrs. Hurlbut that maids are inconvenientup the Nile. Pretty j.. buckles are as hard to get here as they wouldbe in the U. S.

Oct. 4 - Sunday - Did not go to church. Weather showery.Went to Mrs. Hurlbut who says no one takes a maid upthe Nile. Went to see Mrs. Thomas, she and Ad. seemed hadbut the little boy was playing about unconscious of his loss.Ad. sails for home this week with his child. And Mrs. Thomasgoes to Nice for the winter.

Oct. 5 - Monday - After the usual morning detentions we went to enquire the character of Josephine Deleglige who was very highlyrecommended. Went into the church opposite because we saw a carpetdown. Though the church was handsome and the people looked nice,the ceremony seemed tedious. The couple had a good time torest seated in their comfortable own chairs. When the ceremonywas nearly over a young lady who was seated directly behindthe bride rose and taking a bag in her hand was handed downthe aisle by a gentlmean, She handing a sort of box or bag intowhich almost everyone put a small coin, the berger preceeded herand announced that it was “pour les pauvres”. Before they had entirelyfinished another lady rose and taking a boy by the hand handedanother box the verger saying it was for the church. Therefollowed more music prayers etc. We stopped for a moment intothe Madelaine where was another wedding. In the eveningcame Mrs. Robbins, later Mrs. Q. about ten in came Alstonwho ordered a café complet, he not having taken time to eat at hisown hotel.

Oct. 6 Tuesday. Mr. Schenk called in having hastened … ….from Anvergne in consquence of my note, and appointed Thursdayfour our visit to him.

Oct. 8 Thursday - In the noon train chemin de fer du Nordwent out a short distance to Villiers-l-Bel. Here Mr. Schenckmeet us and took us in his own conveyance to his studio a L’Ec….A barn like building, rough plaster within and without and poundedearth floor, that he may let his animals in without fear. Hehas a half doz large pictures done or nearly so - sheep in summerand in snow. One of grapes, one of wolves, a small one with cattle.A dozen sketches taken this summer. Showed us a sketchfor a large historical piece which will …. be painted. Hedoes not hesitate to say that he is the first cattle painter ofFrance. Took us to his house where his wife had bread and cheesecake wine etc put on the Jardin Noble for us. Saw his sheepdraft ponies etc. He and madame accompanied us to the cars. Thewhole execution was very interesting.

Oct. 10 Saturday. Visited picture gallery of the Louvre. Inthe evening to the theatre francaise. Saw La charnie byScribe. Some of the acting was fine. Moral very bad.Went out into the foyer between each act in consequenceof the great heat. The whole thing was quite curious to novices.

Oct. 11 Sunday - After morning church tried to see Mrs. Spenceralso La Princesse . In the evening Mr. and Mrs S. calledthe conceierge having mistaken our message.

Oct. 12 Monday - Busy packing. Josephine came … havingagreed to pay her 250 frs. which shall include all but lodgingIn Egypt she shall receive 100 frs. a month which shall includeher washing all her other expenses to be paid for her that is eatingand lodging. Evening went to the Gaite saw Orphee aux Enfer.A spectacle - a great deal of ballet and altogether not very nice.We had been recommended to go by Mrs. Spencer als by Neil R…land.C took her Ja… and I took cold.Oct 13. Tuesday Sent off trunk by petite vitesse to Alexandria.Decided in the evening to remain another day.

Oct. 14. Wednesday Alston went with us to library, also tothe Academie des Beaux Arts - saw de la Roche’s Hemicycle, paixde Rome, etx At Louvre fine collection porcelain, Henri 2 wareAfter lunch to the Luemburg - saw fine statuary that hadbeen at the Vienna exhibition, also the picture gallery.Have not written journal since Alston came; but have seenseveral interesting sights besides shopping

Oct. 15 Thursday - Left hotel a ten A. M. Alston there to seeus off. At the station found Daudet to say goodbye. ReachedDijon about 6. P.M.

Oct. 16 Friday - Drove about Dijon. Went to Palace of Dukesof Burgundy. … fine tombs in white marble painted in colorsthat of Philippe le Hardi especially - around the sides are beautifullysculptued arcades filled with monks finely carved. A finemantle piece and altar pieces. The Palais de Justice still retainsa finely carved ceiling and there a many other relics. P.M. to Lyon

Oct. 17 Saturday. In the afternoon went to shops calledLa Croix Rousse . the silk weavers district. Went intoone house where we saw brocatelle and velvet being made.Bought a picture of the Russian Empress made on a jacard loom.The man showed us an old jacard loom which had 200 bobbinsI believe they are called - they have now sometimes 3000. As onepulled along could see 12 loom in almost every houseAnd when the carriage stopped the noise of them was quite remarkable. Let Josephine go to Marsailles tonight.

Oct. 18 Sunday. In the afternoon drove rip to NotreDame de Fourvriere - no view, but pleasant executionstreets filled with pleasure seekers. The walls of the church are covered with offering of pictures etc. A new church is commencedclose by. After coming down the hill crossed both Rhone and Soane toget to the park which through not very large is very beautiful.Went into a fine green house filled with tropical plants. Returnedhome later passing among some fine residences.

Oct. 19 Monday Left hotel before 7 a.m. It was GrandHotel de Lyons opposite the Bourse. Lyons is a very finecity has grown wonderfully since I last saw it. Thewhole R.R. route very interesting. More especially afterpassing Orange. We often saw Roman remains from the cars. The rocks sometimes had a volcanic appearance.Had a good view of the amphtitheatre at Arles, and some otherremains. Passed along the … which appeared as if cobblesontes and pebles had been rained upon it. Many mulberry treestoday and lately olive trees. Josephine met us at the station.Aloes planted near it. Went to Grand Hotel de Marsailles.

Oct. 20. Tuesday Strolled about the streets, bought somefigs and found them good. Afternoon drove up to Notre Dame de laGarde, splendid view over whole city and curious jagged ….hills on the right. Chateau d’If and other islands quite near.In every way a charming view. Then drove along the fort, looked up its curious narrow streets with tall housesthen along the fine new Bassin de la Joliette - splendid docksand a great deal of shipping. Passed near new cathedral whichis being built. The church of Notre Dame de la Garde is new and rich - the walls covered with pictures of perils by seaand land - models of ships hang from the ceiling, flags, and banners.

Oct. 21 Wednesday - Walked about bought a pome granite for .75 - it had come from Spain. Thenative fruit here is chaper and not so fine. Oysters soldalong the streets at from one to two francs a doz. Figstwo sous a day. Thrushes and larks in the market as game. Saw juju for sale, looks like aleather colored olive, taste agreeable. Plenty of olivesboth green and black. Peaches for sale, and bananas, but notvery plenty. Saw some other curious fruits. Muscles andsmall crabs abouyt two and a half inches across, think theymust have had soft shlls. Also a curious thing fromamong the rocks, something like the prickle outsideof a chestnut but blak and a very little yellow to eatinside. J. says they are ousins, very good to eat and inthe proper season are four or five inches across. Left intrain about noon, and being behind time did not reach

Oct. 22- Thursday Cannes until nearly six P. M. Grand Hotelde Cannes. A lovely ride. Olives, oranges, sunberries, umbrellapines. Picturesque and luxuriant views, wonderful rocks, and the mediterraneanSaw Roman remains at Frejus which young Frenchman in carpointed out to C.

Oct 22. Thursday A… and various kinds of palins alsoprickle pear, with fruit on it (which I recognize as what Ibought some years ago, look like little pine apples). Orange andlemon trees, all in the hotel garden before our windows and beyondthe sea, of which we hear the roll distinctly. Took a superbdrive, and the “grand tour de la Californie pas le caual”charming views, Esterel rocks jutting out proudly with thesea towards the west. In front Ile St. Margueritefrom which Marshal Bazaine recently escaped. Villa dottedall over the landscape. Vegetation charming quite differentfrom any thing to which I am accustomed. The fragrantyellow cassia in bloom from which they make scent. Theblue green eucalyptus tree a pleasing variety and many othernovelties. Returning stopped at Villa San Jean, belongingto the Comtesse de Chaponay, very beautiful did not gointo the house though the old servant who knew of Cath urged us to do so. Drove in the opposite direction to seewhere Lord Brougham had lived. Walked in the afternoon.Old town very narrow and dirty. Went into market just asthey were removing the booths. Peaches, chestnuts, pearsgrapes, tomatoes beans etc. There is a factory of pottery herefine shapes, coarse ware, attempts at Etruscan, cheap.Saw men driving piles. Twelve men pulled ropes tolift - a heavy arrangement of iron and stone and then let itfall upon the pile. Dreadful labor. Charming re….Two months away from home today.

Oct. 23 Friday Left Cannes towards noon and should havebeen at Nice in an hour. Train about a half hour behindtime and there a long detention in leaving station at Nice.Hotel de France, considered best cuisine in Nice, ….rooms, lovely southern exposure. Walked about promenadesAnglais, bridges over the Piglione, looked in at the Chauvain

Oct. 24 Saturday No letters. C. took me up stairs at thechauvain and showed me the room occupied four years ago etc.Soon after noon went by rail three quarters of an hour toMonaco, in omnibus up the hill to the palace. Built arounda hollow square, the arcades of which have tawdry frescoes of century, some represent the labours of Hercules from whomMonaco is said to date. A fine marble st… going up both ways.The appartments tasteful, the floors marble f the ordinary peacheycolor coarse mosaics so much used in Italy, poor portrait offamily conections, some reigning in Austria, Bavaria et. Finebedroom where the Duke of York, brother to George the third died. Theview from the windows much interesting. The garden is ….-ing t….d on the slope of the hill, carefully laid out next thetropical vegetation to which we are becoming quite accustomed. A ten minute drive or less to Monte Carlo. We enteredthe casino, directly opposite the entrance a fince concertwas going on in a large hall. The audience only abouttwenty five patrons. Towards our right was a beautifulreading room in a rather Pompeian style of decoration - abundantly supplied with papers. Turning back to the leftcrossing a richly decorated room where no one was sitting toone still riches in something of a Moorish style when werethe gambling tables - about sixty persons were sitting atthem playing of whom ten were women. There might havebeen thirty or more looking on. Outside are gardens beautifullylaid out and an excellent hotel, also a restuarant. Were back at Nice by 5.30. The shop keepers do not find enough visitors yet for them to open their shop. Many have the shutters still closed.

Oct. 25 - Sunday. Drove to C….s Arrived there the roadruns directly through the remains of a Roman amphitheatrecontinued to the church built on the site of a temple of DianaPeeked into the cloisters of Franciscan convent adjoining. Wentinto cemetery. For the centre was a fine monument to anEnglish lady. In front of the church are several magnificienttrees “chenes Virls” Several hundred years old. Returned byway of Carabacel( a part of Nice further removed from the sea)There seemed to be a great many villas, some of them veryfine.Drove the whole length of promenade anglais,very pretty, it took about 8 minutes. Saw G. Crosby andwife in front of his house there. Drove over bridge to the oldtown and got out and walked about some of the narrowstreets and market places. Stepped into a house that lookedfiner than the rest, it had belonged to a noble family butno to some one else and seemed used in part as ersatz tenementhouse. After lunch went to the English church buthad made a mistake in the hour of service. The churchis very pretty and neat stained glass windows, font nearthe door. The grave yard between the church and the street. In the afternoon went over to the park to hear the music, partlywith the hope of seeing M. Thiers who had just arrived. droveto the old chateau, charming view, Nice laying below, and thedry bed of the torrent distinctly dividing the old and new townsa amphitheatre of hills surrounding it except where the Mediterranean stretched. Many villas on the hill sides. In frontof our hotel, the date palm and Eucalyptus alternate. It is onlyabout ten years since the first Eycalyptus were planted hereand they are large trees. They seem to have leaves of twodistincally different shapes or perhaps they change in shapeas the tree grows older. It only grows between Marsailles and Genoa. The bark is smooth but peels offeven quite cut on the branches giving it a ragged appearance.The pepper trees here are very pretty with their fine foliage andbright peppers hanging down. Nor quite …. which began of Cannes still contains. Waiters and some of the visitors look as if in early shapes of small pox

Oct. 26 Monday - Vetterino and four horses at 8 1/2 a.m. - crossedthe Pallion and directly the road began to ascend, fine viewsover Nice and and its hills, seemed to follow the Pallion which isbanked up for many miles and perfectly dry up here. theMediterranean and its coast seam spread as a map below us - counted fifty sails in sight at once. This coast is full ofcharming bays. Our departure by vetturino seemed to createsome excitement among the passers by at Nice. Before we were fairly out of the city our leaders turned right roundto look in the carriage window they had not been usedin this way before; but afterwards went well ; we keptthem about two hours. Up on our left we could see thesnowy points of the Col de Lende (of the Maritime Alps) andthe distant hills looked bleak, though those near wecould see were often terraced to the top and planted withthe vine, the fig and olive. We looked down of Ville F…with its beautiful bay where our squadron winteredfour years ago, then came the long projectiongpeninuslar of Ospizio with its lighthouse. Soon welooked down on the high isolated hill of Ese with its ruinof what must have been a fedual castle, and houses allabout on the ride towards the sea. A real robberstronghold. Had a grand view of Monaco, and MonteCarlo. Passed through the village of Roccabruna, builton (Murray says) Eocene breccia, great masses of which arestanding in among the houses. A very romantic place. Before coming to Roccabruna saw that deeply indented whiteleaf now so fashionable in N. Y. growing on the side of therock, all the same color. Saw jig trees as large as large appletrees and very fine old olive trees. Reached Murtana about12 1/2 P.M. Lunched at Hotel Victoria seemed a good hotel and thetown seemed quite flourishing. We left before two and sooncame to the French frontier where our veterino’s papers we examined and some formality (a pass or something given).Corssed Pont St. Louis which is the boundary between Franceand Italy and on top of the hill encountered the Italian customs housewho took Josephine’s word and only examined her handbag! At Ventimiglia (the first Italian town) we passed right through afort for some distance, indeed all about here had the appearance of being strongly fortified. The town itslef looked very romanticand curious as we looked back at it from the bridge. Going through it it was curious to look in the … shops and narrowstreets. At Bordigliera the date palm is cultivated for the church, and we saw so many we felt quite satiated. Manyof them were tied up to keep their centres white for Palm Sunday. Some seemed to leaf out directly from the groundto grow quite wild. Some were only bare stalks the leaves having all been cut from the top. Arrived at San Remo Hotel Bellerice soon after 5 P.M. Charming situation, excellentclean hotel. While taking our dinner we enquired about the tabled’hote and found that the two gentlement dining at a neighboringround table, like our own, composed the whole table d’hote.One of them is a young English clergyman, perhaps the onesttled here. Three days ago we and one gentleman composed thetable d’hote at Nice. Today had shown us a successionof beautiful pictures and the weather has been perfect.

Oct. 27 Tuesday - Not being aware of our change from Paris to Roman time we kept our vetterino waiting a long half hourdid not start until 9 a.m. A gentleman in the breakfast roomwho with his wife had just come from Rome and Naples sayshe did not find it at all too warm. On our way out of SanRemo passed a number of hotel evidently fitted up for theEnglish. Our road lay along the coast, on our right laya great expanse of sea with not enough land to make itpicturesque and on our right the hills had been out away fromthe road so that they were no longer beautiful, crossedthe railroad track repeatedly. At San Stefano saw agreat many nets drying and a vessel being repaired. At Porte Maurizio were many vessels drawn upon the sand. AtOriglia crossed a fine suspension bridge and stopped 2 hours at the innto rest the horses and lunch. Walked with Josephine, bought somegrapes and peaches and a little sacuer of polenta which we tasted in thestreet. There seemed to be no regular market place, but womeneverywhere selling fruit and veg. A great deal of Italian paste for sale.This morning saw a woman with a great square green cake on herhead for sale. It was dried green pease made into this form, a lot of puree.Part of the time were shut in by olive trees. After Capo delle Mole thevegetation looks more home like - the birch and horsechestnut appearand the cypress and agave have almost disappeared. Crossed once clearstream of running water, where there was no bridge nor embankment, forded the shallow stream. Very pretty views now manytowns on surrounding hills, reached Alassio about 4. P.M. Hotel de Londrespainted gayly outside, the back of it is upon the sandy beach whereis quite a good surf and great noise. From our terrace saw a steamer passing. C. andI took a walk, saw orange tree large and great apple trees and full of fruit. Wnet up on a sort of paved donkey road on a terassedhill side, might have gone to the summit but it was toofatiguing. The man wanted to give us somee white arte…This seems to have been a walled town. From our terrace saw the moon rise beautifully over the hills and reflect on the water.

Oct. 28 Wednesday. The sun rose beautifully out of the water soonafter 6 1/2 A.m. We …. breakfast, made up for it by figs in the carriage.Started at 9. The whole road has been much more interesting thanyesterday. Especially the last half, blod rocks rising to a very greatheight, somethree times passed through tunnels, sometimes throughdeep cuttings in the rock, and sometimes was blasting out out …perpendicular side. A very fine piece of engineering it seemed.Saw many gray old towns among the hills, often as gray as therocks themsleves. In sight of our hotel was the bold island ofGallinaria with a ruined tower etc. Some time before 11 a.m.corssed a stream and on our right was the R.r. bridge and just beyond thatwas a bridg of a single very wide arch; the upper surface of itgoing up to a joint- it might have been of Roman origin. Passedthrough the narrow streets of several towns and stopped to rest atFinale Marina, Hotel National, formerly Palazzo Ruffini - a finestone stair case, and large high rooms. The dining room was hung withpictures belonging to the family of our host - one portrait of a gilr hesaid was by Van dyk. An american had bought some of his oldsaints. Walked aobut eh place, quite a handsome Duomo.They are very busy enriching it now. A man opened a custom to show us a picture crucifixion of St Andrew by Carlo Muratto. We restedabout 1 1/2 hours, reached Savone at 4 P.M. Albergo Srvizzero close to the theatrewith illuminated dials, one showing days of the month. Not open this evening.After lunch passed Noli, still surrounded by walls and towers, or at leasta long bit of wall is seen. Not far off is Isola dei Borgazzi, onlythe seoncd island we have seen. Cliffs are wonderfully fine, watervery clear and of a beautiful color. Entering Savona passed amongperhaps a mile of brick yards, where most of the emplyees were women(yesterday saw a woman making mortar, and today women and girls carryinglarge stones on their heads, men and boys were carving the same, near where largequantities of stone were being quarried and shipped to Genoa. think I may haveseen in the distance the fortifications and light house belonging to Genoa.Took a walk in Savona, a large flourishing place. Cathedral seemd very handsome, large square columns supported the vaulted roofwere annoyed by a priest who wanted to show us the antiquities, whichhad been given by Julius 2 to an older cathedral here, he having been anative of the place. Walked through the market place, and up some marblesteps into the court of a large building occupied by government officescourts etc. One church was hung in black because they were sayingprayers for the release of some one’s soul. It seemed to me as if therailroad must have been half the time in tunnels today.

Oct. 29 Thursday - Left Savona soon after 9 A.M. C. madean effort and succeded in getting a piece of Eucalyptus. Looked upsome streets where were nice rows of …. quite like Paris.Passed through Varazzo where we saw many vessels beingbuilt. Arrived at Cgoletto before noon, a dirty place, full ofbeggars, after a luncheon of fish, walk back to see the housewhere Columbus was born - a newly painted four storyhouse with inscriptions and wine shop below. A lfockof sheep came by as we were looking at it, and we sought refugein a vegetable shop opposite. The sheep helped themselves fromthe womans basket of beans. Many pretty views of hillsand villages; Genoa in sight. At Pegli we went to thePallavicini villa, were 1 1/2 hours. Were not shown the house as the familyare there. The grounds are really very interesting, cut outof the mountain side and made to look quite natural, someof the trees and shrubs brought from Savoy. We went in a boat in a stalactite cavern, among temples etc. Saw the ….of water; but were not wet. There were swings etc to amusechildren. Fine palms of different kinds, camphor tree etc.As we were about leaving the young marquis arrived with the architect. The young marquise was watching for him and came out to meet him. They had only been married twomonths. The rest of our journey was almost entirely between villas or in villages. It was twilight before we reached Genoa, in passingits fortifications had to pass through two gates. an officer cameto see if we had any thing in the carriage to declare. After passingthrough streets of what seemed magnificent palaces we arrive atGrand Hotel de Genes, 6. P. M., by the theatre, on Piazze Carlo Felice, aband of music was playing, the piazza crowded, all very gay.In entering Genova had a … view of lighthouses and shippingas well as of the fortifications on the heights. Oct 30. Friday Walked to the Bankers and then … theMunicipio, when are exhibited photographs of several letters of Columbusthe original being kept in an iron box too precious to beshown. There also is shown a bronze tablet, Roman 533dug up near Genoa in 1506. Here also is a glass case is theviolin of Paganini. Thence to the Brignole Sale, or Palazzo Rosse where are many fine pictures expecially by Van dykeand Bregnole on a white horse and his wife opposite full length andboth very fine. A fine portrait by Bordone. After lunchwent up into the Belle Arte opposite our hotel, but nothingis to be seen, too early in the season. Into the church of San Ambrogio, built by the Pll… very rich in marblesHas a Guido and a Rubens. Then to the Palazzo Ducale, set backfrom the street a fine facade. In the great hall saw only dirtypeople moving too and fro. Thence to the Duomo or San Lorenzoblack and white stripes, bits of old pagan bas relief here and therein the walls, roof about the doors fine. The inside too isin courses of black and awhite, and the effect of the church is grand.There is a detached figure of a kneeling Cardinal at the altarof one of the side chapels. Chapel of John the Baptists is extremelyrich. Very tired men glad to buy a candle reflector and get home. Oct. 31 Saturday - This morning again at 5 the marketwomen took their places with stands of fruti and vegetablesand kept upf a busy lim…nde and gay picture with therered, white or yellow kerchiefs on their heads, further offwere those who sold, English fruits, handkerchiefs, …..and vrious articles for dress. At 10 A.M. all signs of the markethave disappeared and the ….. stand s….. i… place.Walked through the Via dei Orefici, some of the things lookedvery pretty. Saw the Madonna, glass very dirty, but theface appeared sweet. A great buzz in the Bourse. Afterlunch drove to the church of the Annuciata, built by the Lomellini family, an extraordinary wealth of marbles and gilding.Thence to the Palazzo Durazzo della Scala, where after crossingthe usual great square court there is a remarkably fine whitemarble staircase. Did not enter the Palace though there … very fine pictures. Palazzo Babbi where we were shownthrough the rooms where the family live, and just before weleft the Princess, or what ever her title may be, passed throughthe room where we were with her son and daughter going fora drive. High arched frescoed ceilings, some of the walls hungin figured satin, chandeliers covered in silk. Tables of Florentinemosaic handsome chair and some of the light Italian kind.In the library more books and cards and candle with a reflectorjust as they might have left it the evening before. Finepaintings. Vandyke lived a long while in Genoa, andpainted a great deal there and made a great deal of money; butlost half of his fortune by lending it to his friend Palla…Drove to the Acqua Sole and then up a fine new street backof it. Driver showed us the residence of the Am. Consul. Genoaseems to be growing very much in that direction, took aview off a neighboring rampart. We’re at the Palazzo Realnot worth the Ai…

November 1874

Nov. 1 Sunday - Went to the Croce de Malte which has movedseveral doors from the old spot. Walked upon the wall between itand the harbor. To the Villa Doria near the Station, given to AndreaDoria in 1522. The gardens ran down to the sea, Fine marblebalustrades to the terraces. In a fountain he is represented asNeptune. The entrance to the Palace and stairway and largestate apartment are all exquisitely furnished by Del Vaga,a pupil of Raphael, and the little borders and arabesques are charmingThere is india and other china about which belonged to Andrea. Anarmchair of Chas. 5. A sedan chair of Andrea and his portraitwhen he was 95 - a sad change from the heoric figure inarmor painted by Del Vaga, in fresco on a wall, witha number of his descendeants. The R.R. has cut the groundsin two. ….. the trac in the …ent to his grat …To the Seagliotto Gardens, very beautifully planned ona hill having fine views, wound up so gradually tothe top that we were scarecely conscious of the height. A veryexcellent view of Genoa from the semm.. house on top.Aternoon to the campo Santo, not nearly completed ina valley surrounded by hills on every side. Some finemonuments, many of them likenesses. The Milan C. S. finer

Nov. 2 Monday - Left Genoa about 9.20 - The young German whowas in the train to Monaco got in our car. Very enthusiasticabout the scenery which indeed was charming, only too manytunnels. He left at Spezia which seemed most exquisite, and madeus think that we ought to have arranged to stop there. Thewater has looked smooth and bright all day. No tunnels after Speziathe Carrare mts. appear shapr, ragged and barren. One place seemedto see red marble. Reached Pisa about 4.20. After dinnertook a little walk with Josephine. C. having gone to bedwith headache and otherwise indisposed.

Nov. 3 Tuesday -Went to Duomo, a service going on.he sides are covered with large paintings, at the endclose to the door is the tomb of the last of the Medici.Around the altar is the oldest part of the church, theintarsia of the shells (inlaying of wood) is considered veryfine. Have seen it in most of the north Italy churches.The facade of the cathedral with its rows of little columnsstory above story is strange and beautiful. In the campoSanto looked most at Orgagna’s frescoes - Last Judgementand Triumph of Death. Did not go into the Leaning Toweror beautiful Baptistry. Left at 1.20 P.M. after a not very interesting journey reached Florence about 4.50. Comingout of the station found our young germand gad come inthe same train. Hotely Anglo-Americain, kept by dragonsnear the entrance with cascine, among the new fine houses.Saw Mrs. Spencer’s name in the book.

Nov. 4. Wednesday - Draw to our bankers, letters and one from Morgan with passage ticket for Egypt.

Nov. 5 - Alongthe Lung’Arno, over Ponte Vecchio and back to the Piazza dellaSignoria, where we drove about slowly to see it, then intothe Uffizi where we passed the morning in the Tribune.After lunch walk with Josephine in the Casine. Anumber of nice turn outs all two men in box. Nov 5 - Thursday To the Pitti Gallery where we passedthe morning amid its wonderful riches of paintings.Lunched at a cafe then drove around the Duomo, Baptistery,Campanile etc. stopped in the two former. Drove around theCh’ San Michele curious for the niches around the outsidein which are fine statues sometimes a group. Droveto the eastern end of the Lung’Arno and then back againin the sun to the Western Suspension Bridge, and then alongthe old city wall to the Porto Romano erected by Leo 10th. and still retaining its massive doors etc.

Nov. 6 Friday - Home all the morning writing lettersand receiving them. C. not well enough to go out, so went withJ and subscribed to circulating library 2 ps. for a week and two booksat a time. Went into Santa Croce- grand old monuments, architecture uninteresting, based rafters over head. A considerablenumber of monuments have been added since my previousvisit, among them noticed that of Cherubini and Raphael Mosgan

Nov. 7 Saturday. Took J and drove to Ponte Vecchio wheredismissed the fiacre and walked looking in the shop windows.The display on the bridge was mostly ver fine. In theLung’Arno looked at Alabasters and Mosaic - then up Via LousiaBouni, beautiful photographs in this street, continued up ViaRondiella where I went into a china shop to see the ItalianFaience, and cape da monte wware; but did not see any thingvery different from at Tiffany’s. Passed along the back ofSanta Maria Novella dn so home to lunch. C wrote to Forest

Nov. 8 Sunday - English church - all shops closed.P.M. to the Bobile gardens with J - beautiful view ofFlorence and surrounding hills.

Nov. 9 Monday - Excursion to Fiesole, butweather too windy. Charming views. Went intothe old church of St. Alexander, an old womanshowed us about, but it was so dark and disagreeable thatwe could scarcely see. Into the Duomo, fine tomb andbust of a bishop by Mino da Fiesole. Went into the …curious crypt also under the choir. Beggars and personsselling straw goods followed us.

Nov. 10 Tuesday San Lorenzo. Two pulpitsfinely designed by Donatello in the nave, also a beautifulbalcony. Cosimo il Vecchio is buried beneath a largeslab in art of the high altera, he died 1464 and the titleof “Pater Patriae” was given him a year after his death.In the old Sacristy is a bust of him. And under a largewhite marble table in the centre is the sarcophagus ofhis parents. Went around to Via della Cantonelle andentering a low arched crypt and up a narrow flight of stairsto the Medicean chapel - a grand burying place for a family. The buildings is hexagonal with six sarcophagusalternating red and grey granite a …. with the ducalcoronet on each and two of them have a full length statue above and over all are the Medici arms. The room is linedwith precious marbles - the arms of different Italian cities inmosaic. The roof frescoes. Opposite the entrance a place is leftfor an alter. The floor is only of brick. Only one touch that ofFerdinand 1 is entirely finished. By a narrow passage fromthis went into the Sagrestia Nuova on Cappella dei Depositiwhere are the monuments of Lorenzoe and his son Giulianoby Michel Angelo, in white marble, so well knownthrough statuettes and engravings. Santa Maria Novellaan empty looking church, fine old stained glass. In atransept saw Cinabue’s Madonna which was considred so wonderful when it was painted. Very finepictures in the choir by Ghilandaia, many of thefaces are portraits. A crucifix of wood by Brunellescimuch admired. In another transept are the fine frescoesof Paradiso and Inferno by Oreagua. After lunch went withJ. to the Duomo, very bare inside, but some fine oldstained glass, in the Baptistery, saw two babies baptizedthe priest after pouring the water over the childs head wipedit with a towel and when all was over the sacristan powderedthe child head and wound it up carefully in the nurses …. The ceilings upper part covered with rich mosaic Romana great deal of gilding. Nearly opposite the Duomo arestatues of Brunelleschi and who commenced theDuomo. The more one sees this group of buildingsthe more one admires. The Duomo is a grand pile.Close to this is a hospital, saw the brethern entirely coveredin black reutnring with two empty biers.

Wednesday Nov 11 On San Michele, beaturiful groupsof statuary in the outside and exquisite tracery over the windowplaces. Inside is a superb tabernacle erected by Oreagnafrom money collected during a great plague. It encloseda sacred picture fo the Virgin. The carvings are exquisitewhite marble, some Roman mosaic in the littel twistedcolumns, beatufiul statueets, etc. La Badia theentrance to this has no appearance of that of a churchbut turning to the left we found the church - two finemonuments by Nino da Fiesole and a very rich andelaborate carved wooden cieling are the most remarkableobjects. Then to the Bargella or Palezza del Podesta nowa National Museum. Lower floor a collection of Armourthe inner court has the arms of the Podesta all around ment of the fine stairs that we so often can photograph to thebeautiful loggia and turned into a magnificent great hall with highceiling, some statuary round which impressed disagreablyso a room of fine majolica belonging to the medici, the presentmajolica seemed modelled on these - into chapel where is thefresco by Giotta containing head of D… of which we havephoto. Fine collection of amber and ivory - many Luca dellaRobbias. Here is the Perseus by John of Bologna and a number of fine and interesting bronzes which now several days after Icannot distinctly recall. Some tapestries, coins, and seals.Stopped in the court of the Palazzo Vecchio, surroundedby old views of German cities and supported by beautifulcolumns ornamented with arabesques and foliage and in centeris a beautiful fountain. Admired again the Loggia deiLan…

Nov 12 Thursday Into Santa Croce but soon the hourfor closing came and we were hurried out. It has a beautifulfacade and fine old stained glass windows. After lunch wentto the convent of San Marco entering by the outer cloistersurrouned by frescoes and a neat garden in the middleIn one side went in the chapter house where is a crucifixion by Fra Angelico, those looking in are portraits of saintsand mysters full of expression. In small refectory near thefoot of the stairs is a last supper by Ghilandaio, goingup the stone stair case we come to the cells, now niceand empty - stone floor, arched roof a small window with stonestep beneath on which it is necessary to mount to see outwindow arched and about 2 ft by 3, strong wooden shutter inwhich is one still smaller about 5 in by 9. Each cell has a folding wooden chair and a fresco on the wall by Fra Angelicoor one of his pupils. The cells are all alike except thatused by Savonerola who was friar who seems to havehad these rooms. In the first is a sort of monument tohim and a colloured bas relief of his face - in the next isa desk like one he used and containing several breviarieswith his annotations in his very fine clear hand. In aglass case are his roasary, his horse hair band ….next him, his robe etc. In the third room is an old pictureof his mystardom. All extermely interesing. In the libraryin glass cases through the middle are frescoes many largeold … books, illuminated by Fran Angelico and others.Descending the stairs we passed into the rivarer court from this open the rooms of the Academia della Crusca. This hasfrescoes all around the same as the other court, here is a rivell- clotheswere drying about. Next into the Parmacia, did not buy anything. Old vased by Luca della Robbia in the same styleas … see novo in Italian Majolica. Returned through thecourt and passed through the church, saw a curious old mosaicof the Virgin (might be Byzantium) a wooden crucifix painted byGiotto on a gilt ground over the principal entrance - three friendsof Lorenzo di ‘ Medici are buried here. Santissima Annuciataenter through open court which is surrounded by frescoes by Andreadel Santo, now encolsed in glass. Inside the roof is very richlycarved and gilded the high alter is of silver very rich - the chapelswhich run around the church are connected together byopen door ways. On the left hand of the entrance is a wonderfully rich chapel built by Peiro de Medici - the walls are ofFlortentine mosaic, the altar and candelabra of silver, silver lampshanging all around and kept burning - there were many worshippers here. In the court is del Santo’s Madonna del Sacco. Onthe left of the Piazza is the Foundling Hospital or “Spedale deli’innocenti’…. on each side of its piazza. On the side of the hospitalin the spandrills of the arches are babies in swaddling clothes by Luca della Robia.

Nov. 13 - Friday - A dismal cold rainy day - Snow fell in theAppenines last night. Thermometer out of window at noon stood at 45. Inside not over 62. C. went to the Uffizii, I remainedat home.

Nov. 14 Saturday. Neither of us went out, very rainey anddisagreeable. At 3.30 thermometer out of the window showed 41.

Nov 15 - Sunday Weather still raw. Did not go out until after lunch. Took the colli drive. Out of Port Romanoand along among pretty villas to San Miniato, lovelyviews all the way and especially from the front of SanMiniato, a burial place up here, the whole slabs are as closetogether as flagging - continued our course by the PiazzaleMichel Angelo, in the centre is a large bronze statueof David, fine views from this, returned into the city by PortaSand Niccolo, along by the Demidoff Palace and monumentby the Via dei Bardi and Ponte Vecchio and so Santa Crocewith its beautiful new facade and interesting monuments.and fine stained glass. The guide book must tell particulars.stopped a momement at Santa Maria Novella where the congretationwere assembling for vespers. All the altars were lighted, especiallythe high altar and hung with cloth of gold and silver and crimson, very beautiful it appeared.

Nov. 16 Monday After stopping a few moments at San Lorenzonoticed the rich marble altar of colored marbles, the rich oblong puplitof bronze designed by Donatello, saw no way of getting into therealso the music gallery of light colored marbles, the tablet toBernardo Cennini who cast and printed from the first movabletype in Italy. To the Belle Arte where are particularlyfine examples of the earliest masters, gold ground inSaw some of their modern pictures, the Expulsion of theDuke of Athens by Etienne Usse was perhaps the finestsome of the pictures were quite poor. Some of the modernstatuary was fine. To the Uffizi and felt in dispairat being able to retain so little of what I have seen.Went rapidly through all the rooms that never open.The cabinet of gems is exquistetly fitted up and containslovely choice specimens in this department of art. Thereare two rooms full of …. of painters. Beautiful roomexpresly for Niobe and her children. Crossed through thelong gallery over the ponte vechio to the petite gallery. Thispassage way is 100 yds long and has many etchings and drawingsfrom the famous old masters and some fine tapestriesat the further end. All very interesting as are also the views from the windows. Went through the …..rooms as before and also some rooms adjoining whichare also interesting. The bronzes of Cain and Abel byDufies are fine (modern). Drove again aroundthe Cathedral - not far from the statues of Brunelleschi andArnolfo saw the “Sasso di Dante” where he used frequentlysite and meditate in the sun opposite the grand pile ofthe choir of the catheral. Passed in front of thehouse of Michel Angelo a wide house; but not very high plastered and painted of a light color. Some days ago passedthe house of Dante tall and very narrow, many of the windowswere out and it appeared to be entirely dilapitated Twowindows wide - that of M. A may be five wide.

Nov. 17 Tuesday Left Florence at 8.50 A.M. No carpetin car and no hot water - very cold - soon we put our waterproofs on over heavy cloaks and blanket shawl over knees.Italian gentleman pulled the cushion off the opposite seatfor our feet and took another for himself. This was a greatimprovement. Roses in bloom on the road side. Snow onthe Appenines. Every hill seemed to have its village.The cyress and umbrella Pines striking objects in the landscapes. A cloudy day. Sometimes the clouds almost entirely coveredthe country and then they rise and show it beautiful. The road layby Arezzo, Cortona with its long stretch of ancient wall to be seen from the R.R., Lake of Trasimene, Peuriga, which stretchesalong the hill side and seemed to me to have grown, Assisi , Foligno,Trer, then along the Clitumnus, a very narrow stream, Spoleto,Termi, where are the beautiful falls, Narni, where we sawthe noble ruin a Roman Bridge built by Augustus forThe Flaminian Way - one whole beautiful Arch stands, the piers oor two others. Soon after this it became too dark Greg oxen, s…. at first were half … The wh… in middle, then all black.and later to see distinctly or with much pleasure. ReachedRome at 6.30 P.M. At Hotel de Russie found fireslighted and table spread which had an air of comfort. C.fears a headache from the great change of temperature.

Nov. 18 - Wednesday. Not knowing whether we ought to be satisfied with our apartment having discovered anupturned sewer in the side street, we looked in severalhotels the only one inviting was the d’Italie overlooking thegardens of the Quirinal, thought a little of no 4 parler and twobedrooms 25 …. and up 92 steps au troisiem, there on second wereoccupied and au premeire we thought too near the garden. Camehome and changed to rooms au troisieme co. Babinio and Vicolo ….. all day. Looked at fountain Trevi and in Pantheon, pavement has beensomewhat changed. Outside very much worn away. Streettorn up there too. After lunch drove up Corso pastFountain of Trevi to Roman Forum workmen busy there,driver pointed out all objects of interest. Ascended capitolall the way up avove the bells to statue of St. HelenaDay wonderfully fine and clear, view superb, old manpointed out every thing, so that we understand relativepoistions better. Went into Colleseum, where they areexcavating ever so deep.Met Mr. Bernard Moritz overGerman of the R.R. Went into St Clements churchsomewhat curious, but there is an older one beneathInto St John Lateran, very large and fine, wonderfullyclean, beautiful marbles. Went into the neighboruingBaptistery erected by Constantine, all rich marbles.Looked up the Santa Scala, covered with wood. Andreturned home rather late. Met a great many privatecarriages in the Corso. At dinner an Englishman describedin a very interesting many a costume model that he…. they were drawing from last evening. He stoodtwo …. I saw plenty of picturesque costumes.

Nov. 19 - Thursday St. Peters, was shocked to find that a gooddeal of it is not real marble in fact was quite disappointedThe several chapels that were used by the Ecumenical couniclare still shut off, very much interfering with the fine effect.The names of those who were present on that occasion areengraved in tablets on the walls, often so ….ed as to be nearly unrecognisable. After lunch to the Palace of the Cesars where we took a guide, a French soldier who had been there all through the excavations and who showed us every thing with much interest and intelligence.Among the rest saw an Etruscan wall which the Romansthemselves had built over - saw the house of Livia the motherof Tiberius, frescoes wonderfully preserved, leaden pipes, with her name upon them. The house of Augustusa magnificent throne room, on one side of it a chapel and room for the Lares. one called a dining room,near it a boat like fountain. A tumble down stone wallis considered to be the original wall of Rome built by Romulus.For this and the other sites Mr. R… (a descdenant of Salvaotr Roza)has studied the ancients and gives reason for his faith. Remainsof the Palace of Caligula, house of Cicero, and I know not what besides.All this was extremely interesting. Guide gave me a beautifulAscanthus leaf.

Nov. 20 Friday. A rainy morning. To Palazzo Doria inthe Corso, very large and fine, built round to courts. Sawtwo sick looking Eucalyptus trees in the first. Hear that theminiter of Agriculture has ordered a quantity of them to beplanted all over Rome. And they are laying sewers everywhere. To the Capitol saw the beautiful Venus, Juliain her chair, the Faun in R…-Antico, the Dygin Gladiator,The Antinouss., a Faun, the heads of emperors, and many other interesting statues. Plinys Dove - a mosaic of the wall whichI do not remember. I have seen before and very different from any of the copies. The basin is repr…. as …the plumage of the Doves is rather stringy but they have anatural expression. After lunch to the Mesee of the Vaticanas we were only allowed two hours of course it was a hastyrun through its treasures. Glanced through the treasuresof the Braccio Nouvo, (the palace of many things statutes arechanged also in the Gall… of the Ariadne, saw the Apollo,the Laocoon, canvas Peresus (beautiful) and gladiators (all thesecomparing favourably with the antique). The Antinous orMercury without either hand is a beautiful thing.

Nov. 21 Saturday. a beautiful day. Turned of the corso at the Piazzadi Venezia to the Piazza dil Gesu and into the church. the hall ofLapis Lazuli does not appear as large and wonderful as formerly. Wentto the Vicovaro Palace, but the Princess will not be there until the 1 Decopposite it is the Altieri Palace up the via di Ara Coeli and past the theatreof Marcellus which shows some beautiful old fleched corinthian columningnow all filled in and built upon, little shafts between them - a few stepsfarther came to a Fish Market and a sort of double Facade called the Porticoof Octavia. Driving along nearer the Tiber came to the beautiful littleTemple of Vesta now used as a church, near it is a fountain and opposite a churchSanta Maria in Cosmedin, was temple of Ceres and Porsephine, a curious oldplace. In the Portico is a huge round marble mask called “Boccadella Verita”. Out a the Porta San Paolo close to tombe of Caius Cestusof Protestant Burial Ground. Soon passed a little church on our leftsaid to mark where Peter and Paul rested in peace. A short drive to SanPaolo fuori Muri, very plain without but beautiful within. Ibelieve the handsomest church in Rome, rich in marbles whichare arranged with much taste. The walls are of bluish whitewith panels of some colored marble surrounded by a double borderof two different colors. Double aisles divided by grey granite columnsabove the columns all around a …. medallion heads of all the Popes. The rich Baldichino is suupported by four beautiful columns of Oriental Alabaster ….. by Pasha of Egypt. In eachtransept is altar of Malachite. Curious old mosaic over theHigh Altar and back in the choir. Mass was being celebrated ina chapel, lovely soft toned organ. A peep into the cleristyshowed curious old twisted columns. One beautiful old marblecandleabra stood in church. …. had a figure of satancowering underneath it while a boy supported it.Returened passed by Arch of Janus which was near Templeof Vesta, getting out of carriage walked under the arches ofCloaca Maxima. Woman were washing almost in it.Close to this was a small pretty white marble arch calledof Septimus Severus, a church is jammed against it.Passed house of Rienzi dilapidated, had columns withfine cornice and frieze built in it. Turn into the Ghetto; but itbeing the Jews Sabbath the shops were all closed. Afterlunch went to Vatican up the fine stairs to Raphael’sLoggia, which a dreadfully faded, very much since I sawthem, into the rooms continuing his frescoes, thoughin doing so passed through a room recently frescoedprobbly referring to the new dogma, they seemed fine. Raphaels Stanze seemed to me to have sufferred since I saw them.Into the rooms of painting - a lovely Murilla, madonna and child andSt. Catherine, Domenichinia’s St. Jerome, Raphael’s Transfiguration,Madonna di Foligna, two lovely Persgnio’s, Santo Romualdoand some other saints in white by Andrea Sacchi very interesting.Hurried down to see the Sistine Chapel, but only to find that it closed a half hour earlier than the rest and so we were just toolate to see it. Consoled ourselves by going to the Pincian Hall.

Nov. 22 - Sunday. The day being very fine decided to go overthe Appian Way instead of going to church. Stopped first atCaracalla’s Baths a grand ruins. Much has beenexhumed lately by Mr. Rosa. In one large room aboutthe centre twelve hundred persons could bathe at once.Could see three diamond shaped holes where the watercame in and one largeer opposite to empty the waters out.This was the Frigidarium, lso saw the caldarium, and theTepidarium, the room for gladiatorial exercise, the privatebaths etc. Saw the earthen ware pipes for heating the roomsdifferent patterns of mosaic pavement, saw very rich andbits of mosaic that have fallen from the roof representingNeptune, fish etc - the floor of the same room being in a seated pattern. Some of the floors are quite cracked and waved fromand earthquake in the fifth century. The walls are several feetthick. The building is upon a uniform plan, one half of it beinglike the other. Then continuing on the Via appian wentinto the Catacombs of St. Callisto which we had expectedto find lighted in honor of this St Cecilia’s day; but the illumination is postponed until tomorrow and we each took a taper and groped our way along the narrow mouldy passagesnarrow shelfes about four or five often in the height ofeight or ten feet on each side, and were glad in about fiveminutes to have arrived at the other end of our journey.Continued to Cecilia Metalla’s tomb, walls aboutthirty five Roman ft thick. We went a little furtherand had a very beautiful view of the aqueducts far up tothis the walls of the vineyards on either side prevent usseeing any thing. Returning stopped to see a columbariumie house under ground about thirty feet deep and about twentysquare - full of little low, broad arched niches, each one containing twovases generally round and covered by a red earthen cover someseven or eight inches in diameter. In some case the nichewas higher and the vase stood fully exposed to view. There were several busts in one columbarium. An inscription above eachniche. I put my hand in a jar and lifted up some little pieces of charredbone. In one of these buildings was a column in the centre with niches andtwo large niches where statues might have stood. On one side of itwere painted doves etc. In the afternoon to St. D… but thebest music was over before we got there.

Nov. 23 Monday - As the king was to go in state to open the house of parliament we tried to get a stand for our carriagein the Piazza Colonna but was not allowed and as it was too cold for us to stand in the street gave it up. Drove toCastellani’s to see his jewellry but he was on duty withthe king. Went to the Bankers, saw Mr. Hooker, saw whereMrs Spencer lived and looked at jewlry in that building and thenat some of Anderson’s photographs. After lunch went to seethe American church which is up to the top of the windowsred brick and white stone. Inside columns of granite with little white columns lit in and resting on rosso antico below whichis a bleuish marble. Santa Maria Maggiore, place where Pio IX is to be buried before the high altar, descending to the place by staris asbefore the balidchina at St Peters. To San Clemente which was decorated and illuminated in honor of the saint, went down to two subterranean temples one below the other, the lowest of all had been heathen and today water stood in it and dripped from the walls.The under church is plainly arched double aisles, frescoes quaint and curious, quite fresh, illuminated by candles whichdropped grease on the floors - walls etc nicely whitened.Many persons there, a curious sight. Above, the church washung in red and gold and had many worshippers. Stopped inthe coliseum they are excavating wonderfully, havegone down 25 or 30 ft. and some pavement of red and lightbrick. This will change all our long cherished memoriesof the arena indeed I do not see when there is to beany arena left. Called on Mrs. Beck in the corso.

Nov. 24 Tuesday. A cloudy day started at 10 a.m. to goto the hunt not very far from tomb of Ceclia Metalla. Onlya few carriages. About 25 persons mounted to chase the poorfox - some wore scarlet coats one was a lady. Of hounds theremight have been 30 to fifty. They went off so quietly we hardlyknew when they started, they were soon far away overthe undulating ground and we could just see them with a glass.Then left before they returned. Stopped at the Coliseum andwent to the very topmost platform of this tremendous ruin. and looked into the far depths of the present excavations. Walked allaround among the arches and after coming down to what used to beconsidered the arena we went boldly down an inclined plain inamong the recently found arches etc into two or three long passagesheading ever so far away, saw the bronze sockets in the largeflag stones in the middle of the passage where the gates aresupposed to have turned to admit the animals. Some columnsand capitols and fragments of statuary and slabs with figures engrave on them.some of them representing fighting or chase. After a late lunch tooka walk through via Babuino, Condotie and Corso home. On the oldpavement below the arena are long pieces of charred woodwith smaller crossbars of the same - very curious.

Nov. 25 - Wednesday - Took a walk with J. looking in theshop windows bought small cards for Patience, and reutrned by wayof the steps of Piazza d’Espagna and Monte Pincio. After lunch droveto the Mausoleum of Augustus which is now a modern theatre and toPiazza Navona and to see the statue of Pasquin, time, and wind and weatherhave worn the features very much off the face, went into the courtof the Farnese Palace of which the splendid travertine was stolenfrom the coliseum and theatre of Marcellus and carefully laid together hereit is a noble looking building. Drove through the ghetto where abundance of old clothes were hanging out for sale to the RomanForum but were not permitted to descend without a permitcould see extremely well from above. Walked under the arches of the temple of Peace. The stucco mouldingabove still shows the pattern distinctly in many places.Yesterday saw yellow placards pushed up announcing the timeand place and route of the funeral of F…. the artist and invitinghis friends to come to it. His remains were carried by hisfriends and before it was carried his last unfinsihed work andhis palette and brushes.

Nov. 26 Thursday. Wrote for a d…. and tooka walk this afternoon stopped in Santa Maria del Popolorich in marbles and monuments. Saw a slab in the floor toPietro Girometti the celebrated cameo cutter who died in 1859aged 46, on the wall near the troughs is a bas relief of a headand inscription one Giuseppe Ginometti a great numismatistwho died in 1857 aged 71 and who we supposed to be the father of Pietro.Met Mr. and Mrs. Chichester.

Nov. 27 Friday Left Rome at 9.50 AM. White frost onthe grass. It is said that ten persons were frozen to death lastnight in the neighborhood of Rome. The road was very interesting for some time in sight of the aqueducts and among ruins.Picturesque towns on the hills - Shepherds with their sheep. People gatheringolives. Pretty costumes. Afternoon very cloudy reached Naples about5 P.M. Hotel Etas Unies.

Nov. 28. Saturday - not feeling satisfied with the situation of ourhotel we went in search and finally settled at Hetel de la Ville at thefurther end of the Chiara. A genuine rainy day. Next my trunkwas brought to my room last evening it was found to have beenunlocked and my … breast pin is gone.

Nov. 29. Sunday - English church - the best and simplest serviceI have attended since leaving home. Went for a half hour to themuesum and looked at frescoes and mosaics from Herculaneum andPompeii (the so called Prahael’s Hemes were there, in color .. blackground). Drove along the Corso Victor Emanuel and down through the Mugellina and Pozilno road. Driver took us past the Grottewithout showing it. A very beautiful view and fine sun set.A wonderful number of persons dirivng. A very gay sceneladies in light silks driving up and down and … to their friends.It seems as if I never saw anything like it. Talked to mynieghbor at dinner who had been to Pompeii today and is freshfrom Egypt where he found it very warm.

Nov. 30 Monday - A rainy day, so passed it at the Museum after having risen early in the hope of going to Pompeii. The frescoes and fine mosaics from Pompeii are most interesting as also are the bronzes. Some of them are exquisite - the two Discoboli(from one of these the idea of the modern statue of Nydia seems to have been taken) the Mercury resting and the sleeping Faun (though this last seems to require some thing to rest against) the busts of Plato, Seneca and others. Many of the bronze statues have eyes made to represent life that is the white, pupil etc. Fine bronze statuettes. Some very beautiful sarcophagi in marble and fine reliefs. Looked at the rings intalgios etc, also thefine collection of Greek vases. The Etruscan vases are black figures on red ground while the Greek vases with which we are more familiar have red figures on black ground.

December 1874

Dec. 1 - Tuesday - There when we hear bells tinkling and look out we either a cow with her calf going byaccompanied by some one carying a tin measure or else a number of goats passing for the same purpose. Theother day met a woman going through the street with a child’s coffin on her head. Looked in the shops for tortoiseshells and drove through the Strada del Porto, where are poor people and a market held every day in the street - the green vegetables looked very nice. In train of 12.20 to Pompeii. The guide first took into the museum where are the casts enclosing skeletons of several dead bodies look like statues when first rough hewn from the block, charred loaves of bread, various cooking utensils etc, then to the Basilica, Temple of Venus, Forum, to the two Theatres. At the house of the Baker saw the ovens, the grind stones large jar for water. Skeleton lef in one of the locales as it was found. In the Baths, the rooms are well preserved and all the arrangments can be understood, can be seen the lead pipes for bringing in the water and the places where it can be turned off, earthen pipes for carrying away the waste water. Pretty bas reliefs in stucco on walls and ceiling and often a little above the capital ofthe columns richly colored in red and blue. Where they are now excavating saw large fresco of Orpheus charming the wild beasts,and beyond it a room with bright orange colored walls, they are still excavating among the columns of the garden, we went above and saw the men working with their picks and shovels and the boys carrying the ashes and ground away in baskets on their shoulders. This gave us a view over the place. Came to the House of the Faun - in the mosaic in front of the door are the letters HAVE. It is avery large house occupying a whole block. It has two large gardens, one behind the other, in the first was found the